Just Add Water: A Surfing Savant's Journey with Asperger's

“Clay Marzo is an amazing, nearly amphibious surfer with a one-of-a-kind life story. What an inspiring book!” —Matt Warshaw, author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing From childhood, it was obvious that Clay Marzo’s single-minded focus on surfing was unique, his skills otherworldly. But the deeper reasons for this obsession didn’t become clear until his late teens, when Marzo was diagnosed with Asperger’s syndrome.

Marzo was already a surfing phenom, winning the National Scholastic Surfing Association championship at fifteen, but it was tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in. Only while surfing did he truly feel at peace. Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo’s rise to the top of the pro surfing world—and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Unflinching and inspiring, it is a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world and whose story speaks to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit. “Marzo is one of the most amazing surfers to come along in years. He’s fantastic—and so is this book. Great stuff.” —Peter Townend, 1976 world surfing champion “An intriguing read for any surfer, and details the life of Clay Marzo with tact and illumination. Writing the biography of one of Hawaii's most exceptional surfers is a great responsibility, and Yehling did so in a real, raw way that captures the reader's attention.” —Freesurf

© 2024 Mariner Books (전자책 ): 9780544253179

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전자책 : 2024년 5월 21일